Georgian jewelry refers to jewelry made during the years when the four King Georges ruled Great Britain. Georgian jewelry encompassed most of the 18th century and the beginning of the 19th century. During the early Georgian period (George I, 1714–1727), the French Rococo style dominated the arts. There wasn’t a specific individual British style of jewelry during this period, like there was in the Victorian period. The jewelry of this period consisted largely of nature pieces, including designs with birds, flowers, leaves, insects, and feathers. They were delicate and light, and many were set on a spring so that they trembled. Those pieces set with precious gemstones were very unique-they were entirely handmade. Most pieces were encrusted with gemstones, and the type of metal used to create pieces was of secondary importance. The most popular motifs of this time for diamonds were baskets of flowers, spurts of foliage, and feather plumes. During the Georgian period, jewelry pieces with less precious gemstones were also produced in greater quantities, using coral, garnets, turquoise, and even paste.

When the Georgian period ended in 1830, the Victorian period began with the coronation of Queen Victoria in 1837. Victoria loved jewelry and was very influential in the designs of this time. Two words that describe this time period are quantity and variety, which help to define the 19th century. Due to the Industrial Revolution, there was a growing middle class, and successful businessmen lavished expensive jewels on their wives to display their wealth. With industrialization came the development of new tools and new technologies for mining metals. Processes were developed to mass-produce jewelry, such as the stamping of gold settings. Up until this time, France had been the undisputed leader in jewelry design, but with the reign of Queen Victoria, Great Britain began to play a major role. Queen Victoria reigned from 1838–1901, and she wore prolific amounts of jewelry throughout her lifetime.

The Edwardian Period originated with the popular “invisible” settings of diamonds. The larger jewelry houses, unlike artisans working in the Art Nouveau or Arts & Crafts styles, concentrated on better ways of setting precious stones. When Queen Victoria died in 1901, her son, Edward VII, became the King with the Princess of Wales, Alexandra, as his queen. Alexandra was a trendsetter in the fashion world, and new styles of jewelry were designed to go with the profusion of lace, silks, and diamonds that well-dressed Edwardian women wore. Diamonds were essential in this era and were found to be best showcased by using platinum settings. Diamonds in platinum settings were designed to resemble gauze bows, honeycomb patterns, and petit-point embroidery. Millegrain (a method of using thin bands and tiny grains of platinum) was used to make settings appear invisible, and knife-edge design and hinges allowed each piece to have movement. The diamond jewelry of this era is still considered to be the best of its time. Never before, and not since, has diamond jewelry been created to such a high standard. Other stones such as rubies, amethysts, opals, and emeralds were used in conjunction with diamonds to add color and interest. Another popular style of this era was the “negligee pendant,” two stones or pearls hanging at different lengths from a central diamond. With the onset of World War I, the carefree Edwardian life came to an end and changed society dramatically.

The end of the 19th century was a time of much change—a period of rapid colonial expansion—opening the door to a whole New World of exotic ideas and designs. During this time, creativity and originality flourished. The Art Nouveau period took the artistic inspiration of the Arts and Crafts movement and produced a variety of jewelry, remarkably fresh and beautiful in design and craftsmanship. The jewelers of this time were less concerned with valuable gemstones than the overall effect of each piece; therefore, silver and gold were used in conjunction with materials like ivory and horn. Feminine figurines, flowers, scrolls, and insects in colorful enamels were used throughout this period in the United States and Europe, with France once again dominating the movement. Louis Comfort Tiffany was the American jewelry designer best known for his work in Art Nouveau designs. Many of the pieces of this era were so large that they were, and still are, considered works of art. These larger pieces were worn in theatrical productions by famous actresses of the time, such as Sarah Bernhardt. These pieces were very valuable, and many can now be found in museums, including the Walters Art Gallery in Baltimore and the Gulbenkian Museum in Portugal.

World War I’s end brought about many changes in the social structure. Women were becoming increasingly assertive from entering the work force during the war. A new class of wealthy people who profited from the war had the money to purchase luxuries. Art Deco, named after the 1925 Paris Exposition des Arts Decoratifs et Industriels Modernes, represents the style of decorative arts popular between the world wars. The jewelry of this period was derived from the Art Nouveau style with its colors and motifs. With the introduction of Cubism after 1925, jewelry was designed with strong geometrical patterns that the Art Deco era is associated with today. Art Deco jewelry was very ornamental and became more geometrical over the years.

After World War I, glamour became important as the nouveau riche entered society. It was a time of luxury goods, and it became a thriving market for expensive jewelry designs. Color was popular, new extravagant shapes were used, and all different stones were set in each piece. Fashion Designers had a great impact on this era, most notably, Coco Chanel who was known for her use of faux pearls and costume jewelry. Jewelry of this time was made by well-known jewelers such as Cartier, Boucheron, and Van Cleef and Arpels. Harry Winston and Tiffany & Co. also designed Art Deco jewels. Even artists like Picasso, Man Ray, Dali, and Calder designed jewelry. Like the other jewelry periods, Art Deco was affected by the events of the time; first the Depression, and then the beginning of World War II. These events eventually brought about the demise of this era.

During this era, all luxury production came to a halt in Europe as resources were devoted to World War II. The jewelry industry was most notably affected, where all platinum and most of the gold and silver were needed to help fund the war. The United States was also suffering from the effects of the Depression, but it was starting to enjoy the prosperity generated by the war in Europe. During this time, the American jewelry market finally made its impression and became the center for design and production of fine jewelry. Jewelry of this period had an “American” look, which was influenced by Hollywood stars. The style of this era had an architectural flavor with large colored stones set in gold in brooches, rings, and bracelets. As the United States became more involved in the war, the style became less romantic and more militaristic. This continued until after the war, when styles began to soften and more traditional themes of animals and nature returned.

During this era, all luxury production came to a halt in Europe as resources were devoted to World War II. The jewelry industry was most notably affected, where all platinum and most of the gold and silver were needed to help fund the war. The United States was also suffering from the effects of the Depression, but it was starting to enjoy the prosperity generated by the war in Europe. During this time, the American jewelry market finally made its impression and became the center for design and production of fine jewelry. Jewelry of this period had an “American” look, which was influenced by Hollywood stars. The style of this era had an architectural flavor with large colored stones set in gold in brooches, rings, and bracelets. As the United States became more involved in the war, the style became less romantic and more militaristic. This continued until after the war, when styles began to soften and more traditional themes of animals and nature returned.